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Category Archives: viajes
the dokkebi at the end of the road
last night i biked towards anpyeong 安平, a town of old country roads, and smells of burnt grass and decomposing organic matter. i turned towards jangsan mountain and the street soon became a dirt road. then it was just the light of my torch and the narrowing path in front of me. as things got creepier i started thinking about old dokkebis cooking stew in their little skull-strewn caves. i smelled a slow brewing cauldron somewhere near by. i inspected the treeline with my headlamp and a pair of cat eyes glowed back at me from the jungle. the road ended at a metal gate where i assume a dokkebi and its pet cat lived. it had cctv. i heard a low rumble. i looked back and in the distance i saw a train of the elevated line four quietly slither on the tracks above the empty street.
beyond the oncheoncheon | june 16
school cancelled for 3 days because of mers.
at 3 i start a long bike ride around busan.
west to oncheoncheon.
up the creek i find men net casting on a pool of water.
i stop in pnu for lunch. i turn around and bike south to seomyeon. i cross to west busan, the industrial heart of the city.
i arrive at the banks of the nakdong around 7.
i travel south to dadaepo beach following the river.
night falls
men building fires in the dark. praying or passing time where the nakdong empties into the pacific.
in dadae, makeoli for the protectors.
a little after 10 i pass a shop that makes plastic lucky pigs and other creatures in busanjin. they’re working late, perhaps trying to meet a deadline. i hear a machine somewhere in the shop. the machine makes rhythmic sounds as if breathing. with every exhalation out comes a new plastic toy. inside the shop i see a woman sitting on the floor surrounded by a thousand yellow plastic hearts. she is fixing heart-shape stickers on each plastic heart. handmade i suppose.
i stop in seomyeon for a burrito. by 11:30 im home.
mad max
sunday. in an alleyway near my home in jaesong we find a sad parrandero.
we walk from jaesong south to centum. we have lunch. we cross the orca bridge and follow the suyong to where it meets the pacific in millak. we reach ksu just in time to see:
written and directed by george miller.
dmz
waiver to enter the JSA
“The visit to the Joint Security Area at Panmunjom will entail entry into a hostile area and possibility of injury or death as a direct result of enemy action.”
“Although incidents are not anticipated, the United Nations Command, the United States of America, and the Republic of Korea cannot guarantee the safety of visitors and may not be held accountable in the event of a hostile enemy act.”
unc buildings.
rok-ready
no man’s land.
yonder, noth korea.
here be dragons and communists.
HC SVNT DRACONES ET COMMVNISTS | OCTOBRIBUS MMXI
the only gold we ever found
we found the flake after a day of shoveling dirt into a gold extracting contraption my dad built out of air ducts and the air filter from a truck. it was 2009 or 2010 in the heyday of our gold ventures in clear creek. some time later i gave him the gold to keep safe while i traveled to s korea. he lost it somewhere in his house. or at least he can’t remember where he put it. it’s probably in the same spot where he hid and forgot his alleged $500-winning scratchcard.
—
in jeju, we find
music: paco de lucia. la niña de puerta oscura (1972).
더럭분교 deoluck branch school
jeju-do. june 07.
evolution of languages
how languages in western eurasia may have evolved:
article in science
article in scroll.in
video
this is one of the hypothesis.
the leading theory being the kurgan hypothesis.
via wikimedia commons
seoul, pizza, missiles, thai rice and breakdance
we take the mugunghwa to seoul.
¶
itaewon.
i buy 6 books at the what the book bookstore including scary stories to tell in the dark with the original stephen gammell illustration.
i read outliers with some trevi pizza and wine for lunch. pepperoni. quattro formaggi. still the best pizza this or that side of the dmz.
¶
i walk down itaewon-ro in the heart of the american military presence in korea.
i meet some friends on my way to the war memorial museum.
politicians can’t afford to lose face.
turns out they’re having a little protest outside the walls of the yongsan garrison.
turns out not everybody is into gringos or thaads.
¶
the war memorial of korea.
some of the sculptures may inspire you to kick some ass.
missiles. lots.
young children climbing heavy artillery. lots.
ships.
turtle ships.
fighting monks retaking pyongyang castle from the japanese.
¶
sweetie, bear, IU, her boyfriend and i meet up for my thai in itaewon.
across from the restaurant somebody convinced somebody putting a kidnapper-van/bar on top of a building would be a good idea.
we go dancing.
the dance floor is well-stocked with koreans, nigerians, and american gis.
as the clock strikes midnight, a breakdance fight breaks out.
¶
sunday we take the mugunghwa out of seoul. 5 hours later night falls and we’re back in busan.
¶
1800s american presence in korea