Tag Archives: korea

Catacumbas en Los Andes

Last night we were filming at an old elementary school near Munhyeon. I guess it was built in the decade after the war. It looked like a hoarder of cardboard squatted there. There were bundles of cardboard everywhere. One of the PAs told me the school had been abandoned for about a decade in the 60s or 70s. A lot of things were hidden under black dust covers. As we were shooting in the small atrium, I heard unusual noises. I walked down a dark hallway and entered the classroom from where I thought the noises were coming from.  The classroom was empty except for chairs and desks. The noises seemed to be coming from the ceiling. Water pipes most likely.

I leave the location after 11 to catch the train home. Once in bed I fall asleep quickly.  I am back in a boulder field in the Andes, with the laguna behind me.  I meet my oldest brother and he makes a remark that upsets me. I sit and wait and look towards La Posada. My old dad appears and then we’re in his taller (the one he had by the big window before the one he built by the white higuera). He asks me to follow him to the backyard. The old adobe walls are now brick and elaborate. They remind me of the columbarium walls of Cementerio General. White squids hang to dry like sad socks beneath red brick Gothic arches. There’s a staircase, and he tells me there’s treasure if I follow it down to the catacombs. I wake up con corazon pesado. Outside is drizzling and gray.

viajes por tierra en bici – corea

daejeon to sejong city

120 km south of seoul near the middle of the country.

daejeon to sejong city  (solar bike path )

goseong-gun to samcheok

unification observatory in goseong-gun county south to gopo village in samcheok by bike (east coast)

busan to seoul

busan > follow the nakdong river north> cross the middle of the country on the saejae bicycle road to where the han river begins > ride the hangang up to seoul

four rivers trails

four rivers trail system (korea joongang daily)

  • hangang (seoul) paldang station > chungju dam ~ 136-224 km
  • geumgang (west, middle of the country) daecheong dam > geum river estuary ~ 146 km
  • yeongsangang (south west tip of the peninsula)  damyang dam downstream > mokpo yeongsan river estuary weir ~ 133 km
  • nakdonggang (busan) ~ 100-378 km (korea herald)
  • saejae bicycle road (hilly link between the nakdong and the han) ~ 100 km

riverside biking trails in korea (pdf)

seoul bicycle website (in korean)

four rivers guide site

from anpyeong over jangsan to dalmaji

traveled to anpyeong in eastern busan on an automated train.

traveled to anpyeong in northeastern busan on an automated train.

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countryside. greeted by puppies.

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road to jangsan.

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old mound graves of ancient koreans hidden under crusty leaves.

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found a temple and its guardians in the wilderness. 안적사.

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counted the steps. they were not 108.

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found the croissant-shaped egg sacs of the korean salamander

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and the spring batch of other amphibians.

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saw men and women foraging for spring snacks in the short grass. 쑥 mugwort.

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saw the boulder fields of jangsan and the towers of dalmaji.

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march 2014

cerberus

dream
I speak to old classmates. We talk about my upcoming bday. I show them a slideshow of photos from a long train trip.

Now we’re on a train. We pass a cemetery. I point it out.
The main gate of the cemetery sticks out from the forest like the doors to Jurassic Park.
Behind the cemetery a city of blue and dark blue skyscrapers.
I say “El Cementerio General.” Of what city? Santiago? There are houses near the entrance. The houses are walled with white adobe like a huaso pobre’s hacienda.The walls stand shoulder high. There’s a tall ancient oak tree with roots clawing the ground like a mangrove. We see four figures loitering outside the closed hacienda’s gate. They have long, thick necks and mullets. They’re anthropomorphic hyenas.

A few of us get off the train and approach the creatures for a quick picture. The place is humid like June in Ithaca. The hyenas appear to be small men dressed in costumes, walking on two legs and grumbling. They scramble away through a hole under the hacienda’s gate. Rising from behind the wall, two columns painted with red, green and yellow Buddhist motifs. The columns hold a Korean temple-style roof. The hyenas stick their head out from a gap on the wooden gate. The three or four heads seem to belong to one body like the guardian dog of Hades.

Before we can get close to the hyenas we’re intercepted by two nuns with black veils and habits. As they approach us, an arrow flies in front of the older nun. We look up and see four or five metalhead youths on the second floor of an a-frame house. Their terrace extends to the branches of the oak tree. The teens have long black hair and lounge about on sofas and bean sacks. Some sport black iron maiden tshirts and ripped jeans. The mother nuns reprimands them. She turns to us. She’s ancient, small and fierce. The nun looks at the first one of us. She says to him “Ud. es perfecto.” and touches his arm. To the next guy she says, “Ud. esta gordito. Mire, su polera le queda chica.” The guy’s belly bulges and sags over his waist como un saco de harina blanca. I’m nervous. I don’t want to be made fun of. She looks at me and says “Necesita un poco mas de trabajo”. Then moves onto the last guy. To him she says “Esta muy flaco.” I wake up.

gustave dore via wikipedia

 

banyeo to sajik

banyeo. saw the local tomcat chasing a marauding intruder. they tumbled out from under a parked car letting out war cries. the catfight rolled onto the busy street. the cabdrivers slowed down and gave the warriors a brake-a courtesy not often extended to civilians and pedestrians.

crossed the suyong into yeonsan. followed gobun-ro along baeksan mountain. went over the tunnel that cuts into one of baeksan’s protuding ridges. at the top, i visited the ancient tombs of yeonsandong (옌산동고분군) from the gaya period (first to 6th century AD).

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DSC_0344found a not-so-ancient artifact in the sexy and shady district surrounding yeonsan intersection. possible relic of a demolished love motel.

DSC_0352followed the worldcup-daero road, renamed for the 2002 fifa world cup that took place near by.
past geojeyeok entered an old neighborhood.
signs of mudang and shamans.

DSC_0354a door to an abandoned house.

DSC_0355a neighborhood that will be swept away by the new korea of high rises and lotte castles.

DSC_0356a pastoral scene.

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